Giulia Borgazzi
It took centuries before women could get rid of the corset, bustier-armour, often stiffened with whalebones, capable of artificially modifying the upper body into a conical shape. From about 1500 to 1790, a date that coincides with the birth of the neoclassical style, the corset represented an instrument of torture that caused serious health problems. However, we will have to wait for the advent of the 20th century and the 'oriental' style creations of Paul Poiret – one of the first couturiers to interpret the will of women and their desire for social emancipation – to see it disappear from wardrobes.
However, in fashion, as we know, everything comes back cyclically, and already in the 1950s the idea of bringing the corset back into vogue, highlighting the breasts and making the waist slimmer, appealed to several stylists, first and foremost Monsieur Christian Dior. Later, in the 80s and 90s, then there was the success of corsets and bustier dresses by Thierry Mugler, disappeared just a few days ago , Dolce&Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood and Jean-Paul Gaultier (impossible to forget her bodice with cone cups worn by Madonna on the tour Blonde Ambition).
A completely different story, however, compared to the boss who made him suffer so much in the Victorian era; now this type of garment takes on a whole new identity: it is an expression of feminine power, something to play with and express one's sensuality. The same goal pursued in the new millennium by stars such as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga or Kim Kardashian, who have never hidden their passion for this type of garment. The same can be said of the main fashion brands that have chosen it as one of the main trends of the season for this spring-summer. Of course, everyone interpreted it in their own way; there are those, for example, who let themselves be inspired by romantic moods and a vintage flavor, like Ulla Johnson, who instead preferred to focus on the lingerie style, as Dolce&Gabbana has always loved to do, who still focused on geometric designs and voluminous structures , such as Givenchy. In any case, the new corsets lose that oppressive aspect (thanks above all to softer shapes and materials) becoming symbols of a sensual fashion aimed at enhancing one's body but not mortifying it; for self-confident women who are free to show their femininity as they please.
Dolce&Gabbana – Sleeveless bustier mini dress in stretch satin and lace and tulle bralette. Sexy and glamorous
Acne Studios – Leather corset embossed on macramé cotton knit top and wrap skirt with side buttoning. Urban Amazon
Giorgio Armani – Bustier effect for the light blue silk top with V-neck, fastening behind the neck and pleated workmanship with gathering at the waist, overlaid with light knit in tone with long sleeves in stretch organza. Celestial
Gucci - Front neckline long sleeve knit top topped with crystal pink silk bodice and paired with black shiny leather pants. A romantic and daring look at the same time
Hermes – Ensemble in soft nappa leather. Minimal and refined
Ulla Johnson – Victorian-inspired and extremely romantic garment with long puff sleeves and cotton lace inlays
Tom Ford – Camisole-bodice with stays characterized in the upper part by a soft fit. The result born from this contrast is excellent
Givenchy - Asymmetric leather Peplum jacket with front zip and flounces, worn with a leather bra as well as pleated shorts mixed with a stiff sheer fabric. A gritty and ultra-modern total black
Tory Burch – Trompe-l'œil effect for the striped cotton dress with pleated skirt and front closure with hooks
Sportmax - Cotton knit bandeau top with compact stitch and cotton canvas bodice, featuring topstitching patterns, bands with metal buckle adjusters at hips, metal snap button opening and adjustable crisscross ribbons at back. The combination with slim trousers and trompet at the bottom in wool and stretch viscose canvas with drawstring peplum is perfect. Intertwining and layering games for a youthful impact look
Dakota Johnson – Lingerie effect, which is now strictly visible, for the Gucci lace corset
Olivia Palermo – The trendiest way to wear the corset? Over a candid cotton shirt. Dior total look
